I-94 Is Delicious: The Palmer House Hotel, Sauk Centre, MN

I have a confession to make.

I like ghosts.

Jake, on the other hand, likes aliens. He finds them more probable than ghosts, but I disagree.

To be realistic, I’m terrified of ghosts. Never in my life do I actually want to see or encounter one. But nevertheless, I still like ghosts.

This ghost talk brings me back to a conversation Jake and I recently had with friends. We discussed living offensively vs. defensively over Rhombus Guys pizza and half-priced wine (we especially liked the Louisiana Saturday Night). I live offensively enough. I’m usually game for new experiences, as long as they start before 8 p.m. Jake mentioned he feels that as he’s gotten older, he’s come to live life more defensively, which has resulted in a smaller pool of stories.

When I reflect back, my most interesting stories occurred during travel. And not just long trips, but local road trips, too. In the spirit of adding new experiences to the old story bank, I convinced Jake to join me on another adventure down I-94. We stopped in Sauk Centre to visit the Palmer House Hotel on our way to Saint Paul, MN.

If you take the Sauk Centre exit and turn left, you’ll find yourself on Main Street within minutes. The Palmer House Hotel is located along the heart of my favorite type of classic Americana main street. It’s a striking, three-story building made from red brick and impossible to miss if you’ve seen a photo. The hotel was rebuilt in 1900 and was the city’s first building with electricity. Sinclair Lewis, the first American to be awarded the Nobel prize in Literature, hailed from Sauk Centre and used to work at this very hotel. Literature buffs can visit the Sinclair Lewis Interpretive Center, located right off the freeway, and his childhood home.

Even more so than Sinclair Lewis, I’ve seen Palmer House noted for it’s paranormal activity. The hotel has seemed to have been explored by every paranormal investigation group in the region and was recently featured on the Travel Channel’s Ghost Adventures.

We walked into the lobby and were directed to seat ourselves in the pub (bar). At three p.m., the hotel was extremely quiet. Nevertheless, the young woman who served us was attentive and friendly. We warmed up with hot coffee delivered in large, clay mugs. They were the type you grip with two hands and, for some reason, I found joy in this.

We learned happy hour had just begun and appetizers were half-priced. Since it was before five p.m., the dinner menu wasn’t offered yet. The lunch items consisted of appetizers, soups, sandwiches, and salads. I wasn’t terribly hungry and ordered the ham, cheese, and pineapple quesadilla, because I’m six. Actually, I ordered it with fresh jalapenos, lettuce, salsa, and sour cream, so maybe I’m twelve.

Jake ordered a burger with blue cheese and caramelized onions, and a side salad.

 
 

 

 

 

 

My quesadilla was good enough.

A crispy, orange tortilla sandwiched a thick layer of cheddar cheese, cubes of ham, pineapple tidbits, and fresh jalapeno. The salsa was mild, but a step above that sweet, thick jarred stuff, and the accompanying iceberg was typical. Overall, a satisfying appetizer and hard to criticize at less than $4.

Jake’s burger was cooked through (I don’t think he was asked about doneness and he forgot to ask), but it was moist and covered in plenty of caramelized onions and creamy blue cheese. The bun was buttered and nicely toasted. The side salad was like a typical, bagged iceberg lettuce mix. Nothing remarkable but it was fresh and the dressings tasted good.

The hotel appeared clean, though slightly worse for the wear. The exterior of the building conjures glimmers of its historical richness, and the interior looks like it was decorated by any one of our Midwestern grandmothers. The lobby restrooms were also clean, yet worn. Curtains, instead of doors, shaded the stall and a wooden stick propped up the sink. The hotel management displayed a note by the mirror  acknowledging they were aware of needed repairs, but needed to wait for insurance settlement money to arrive.

All in all, our meal was decent and affordable, especially with the happy hour discount. The Palmer’s lunch menu wasn’t worth a special trip in itself, but the hotel was a pleasant place to pause for hot meal and break from the drive. Visiting a building steeped in so much history and lore felt like an adventure in itself and the service was hospitable.

And, ghosts.

Sauk Centre’s charming main street is very accessible from the freeway and about halfway between Fargo-Moorhead and Minneapolis-St. Paul. I also noticed other restaurants and cafes and would like to return for further exploration. Returning for dinner could be fun. Maybe after I have a chance to read one of Lewis’s literary offerings.

Food-Related Odds and Ends

Enjoy these food-related odds and ends from my winter break.

Jake’s grandma passed away this weekend so we will head to the Twin Cities for the memorial service next weekend. When we return, winter break will end and culinary class will resume.

Ole and Lena’s Pizzeria, Westacres Mall, Fargo, ND
A blog reader recommended the original Ole and Lena’s in Rothsay, MN, about a half hour away on I-94 towards Minneapolis. There is a smaller version at the mall’s food court.

I enjoyed a piece of plain, cheese pizza. The crust had nice texture. Firm where it was supposed to be firm, chewy where it mattered, and floppy in all the right places. It also tasted a little sweet. The slice was large and was topped with high quality cheese. Perfect for when I’m craving Cosetta’s-style pizza.

Citizen Cafe, Minneapolis, MN
During Christmas week, I met a friend for dinner at Citizen Cafe. She mentioned the restaurant’s commitment to locally sourcing ingredients. I arrived a little early and the staff was more than happy to let me pause at a table and sip a glass of wine until she arrived.

Our server brought a complimentary bread basket. The bread was served warm and accompanied by soft, whipped butter and a mysterious, vegetal/nutty spread.

We both ordered the portobello sandwich which was affordable at $9 (add .75 for goat cheese). The mushroom, onion, roasted red pepper, and squash were cooked nicely and the balsamic provided tang. The ciabatta was toasted and tender. Following the large holiday meals I had recently eaten, I ordered the sandwich without goat cheese, which I immediately regretted.

Sandwiches come with fruit, coleslaw or homemade potato chips. I ordered the chips and they were cut into thin, unseasoned waffle crisps. Overall, the restaurant had a wierd vibe. Not unfriendly, but maybe reserved or curious.

Nelson Bros., Clearwater Travel Plaza, Clearwater, MN

On our drive back to the Twin Cities, we wanted to grab a non-fast food lunch. A blog reader once recommended the deli sandwiches at the Clearwater Travel Plaza along I-94.

I found the sandwich counter next to the bakery. The ordering system initially struck me as slightly overwhelming. I think I expected to order from a larger menu of set sandwich combinations, but the deli encourages customers to pick their own bread, meat, cheese and sauce. Sort of like Subway. Eventually, I noticed a small sign advertising sandwich combinations.

I ordered chicken salad but discovered I got tuna salad in the car. Fortunately, I like both equally. The tuna salad was a little wet, but tasted fine. The vegetables were fresh and there were many to choose from. I liked the spicy mustard sauce and the bread was notably fresh. I ordered Jake a creation involving roast beef and horseradish sauce and was pleased.

All in all, the deli serves large sandwiches for about $6. Ideal for those who like to customize, but putzier for those who are in a hurry or don’t feel like making a lot of decisions at that moment.

Hi-Ho South, Fargo, ND
I stopped by to satisfy a casual burger craving on New Years Eve Day. I ordered a California burger with grilled onions and the works and onion rings to go.

The onion rings were hot from the fryer. Crispy, not greasy, and wonderfully salted.

I liked everything about the burger except the actual meat patty. I’ve read Hi-Ho chooses not to season their meat and it tasted bland. It was tightly packed, finely ground, and dry. However, the bun provided enough support, the vegetables were fresh, and sauces nicely applied. Service was fast and friendly. Too bad about the meat.

Cafe 21, Fargo, ND
A fellow Fargo food blogger, FMFare, discovered a new Asian restaurant serving Japanese, Korean, and Vietnamese foods. Cafe 21 seems to have replaced Yuki-Hana, a Japanese/Korean fusion restaurant. They serve pho and might be the only restaurant who makes bahn mi. The Asian and American Market sells bahn mi from the Twin Cities in their refrigerated section. I tried one once, and thought the freshness got lost in transit.

We enjoyed spring rolls, spicy ramen with vegetables and egg, eel sushi, beef pho, and flan. Fresh and affordable. Friendly service. Would not hesitate to return.

My only suggestion: Do something about the microwave prominently displayed by a large window facing the parking lot. But more on this dinner later.

A New Knife Set
Jake’s uncle is active and successful in the Minneapolis-St. Paul restaurant business. He generously gifted me with this metal suitcase O’ Wustoff knives. He said someone had done the same for him when he began his culinary career.

I just bought a diamond steel so I can try to maintain them. There are two layers of knives and cooking tools such as a zester, channel knife, melon baller, and sewing needles. There are even a couple keys to lock the whole thing up.

We bought Dexter Sani Safe knife sets for class. The handles may be safe, but not particularily sanitary. They are indented with tiny grooves that prevent slippage but trap debris. In class, it’s not uncommon for students to grab knives from cutting boards while the owner’s back is turned. Knives and other tools are borrowed, never returned, and run through the dishwasher.

These will never see the light of class.

An Ice Cream Maker
Our good friend gave us her ice cream maker. She only used it once and just never got into it. I am excited to give it a whirl.

Thank you for your dining suggestions. They are always appreciated!

A Detour At Kay’s Kitchen, St. Joseph, MN & Nine Breakfasts That Changed My Life

Jake and I enjoyed one of our longer stretches away from the Twin Cities. It fell between our wedding and Thanksgiving. Now, we’re back to traveling back and forth along I-94 for the holiday season.

This past weekend we celebrated the engagement of Jake’s youngest brother and his fiance. On the way back to Fargo on Monday morning, I stopped at Kay’s Kitchen, in St. Joseph, a restaurant that has served breakfast since 1972. St. Joseph is the home of the College of Saint Benedict and Saint John’s University so I guessed it would have a decent cafe or diner. I had remembered finding Kay’s Kitchen on a web search for breakfast along I-94 months ago.

When I’m in a hurry but want to stop for a food detour, I pause in towns whose main streets are about five minutes from the freeway (such as Osakis and Fergus Falls). I stopped in St. Joseph, knowing its main street was also a short drive from the freeway. Kay’s Kitchen is not actually located in St. Joseph’s charming main street area, though it’s not far.

I sat in the diner part of the restaurant and perched on a bar stool along the counter. The woman working there quickly offered me a bottomless mug of coffee, $1.69, and provided me with a menu. Little plastic containers of cream and a jar of sugar were already at the counter.

For breakfast, I chose the Silver Spoon Omelet, $7.99, described as having avocado, tomato, onion, bacon, mushrooms, and cheese. It also came with my choice of wheat toast and hash browns. After a short wait, my breakfast arrived.

The omelet was fluffy and I liked its texture. The inside was filled with plenty of caramelized mushrooms, onions, and large pieces of crunchy bacon. I love mushrooms, especially when cooked to a golden brown. The avocado on the top of the omelet was a little droopy and slightly oxidized. It didn’t taste bad, but could have been fresher. I’m guessing it was overripe or cut much earlier.

The omelet, as a whole, tasted quite good, but I didn’t like the little dribbles of oil from the inside. These either came from the sauteed vegetables or bacon grease. I enjoyed the hash browns. They were crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. They were also nicely seasoned. The wheat toast was dense and grainy and spread with margarine. I helped myself to the plastic packs of strawberry and grape jelly available on the counter.

In summary, breakfast was fine. I liked that the hash browns and omelet seemed to be cooked well and tasted more nicely seasoned than usual. However, the avocado could have been fresher and the omelet was a little oily. I did appreciate that Kay’s used fresh mushrooms instead of canned. I hate canned mushrooms. They taste bad and are a lazy effort considering that it’s just not that hard to saute fresh mushrooms.

The service wasn’t notably warm, but it was attentive. My mug was frequently refilled with hot coffee and I received my bill quickly which was helpful since I was driving directly to class in Moorhead.

Although I enjoy breakfast foods, restaurant breakfasts don’t often strike me as life changing. More often than not, they have been decent, but not life changing. But that doesn’t keep me from searching.

Below, I share my nine favorite breakfasts out. Do you have a favorite in Fargo-Moorhead you can recommend?

Nine Breakfasts That Changed My Life

  • Venezuelan corn pancakes with butter, syrup, and cotija cheese from Maria’s Cafe, Minneapolis, MN
  • Daily egg bake from The Lodge On Lake Detroit, Detroit Lakes, MN
  • A freshly fried churro, Puebla, Mexico
  • The room service breakfast we ordered after our wedding from The St. Paul Hotel, St. Paul, MN.
  • Four-course breakfast at The Elephant Walk, a bed and breakfast in Stillwater MN (the cheese and homemade cracker platter was stunning as well. Rita even made me gluten-free muffins during my year-long, gluten-free phase).
  • Breakfast on trays including maple sausage, french toast, and fruit that we picked up to eat in our room at the Chelsea Station Inn, a bed and breakfast in Seattle, WA (The rooms are more like apartments and cost less than what you’d pay at a nice hotel. There is a community fridge packed with treats like goat cheese, local sodas and ice cream, plus an equally stuffed pantry).
  • Fluffy cinnamon rolls from Isles Bun and Coffee (I worked at an office next door for one summer and, had this been longer, I would have had some problems).
  • An eggy breakfast skillet with thin slices of jalapenos griddled until caramelized at the Waveland Cafe, Des Moines, IA.
  • The simple but satisfying $5 free range eggs and sourdough toast plate from French Meadow Bakery and Cafe, Minneapolis, MN

Visiting The Viking Cafe, Fergus Falls

On Friday morning, I drove to the Twin Cities to begin our wedding weekend.

My stomach churned with hunger an hour into the drive, so I stopped in Fergus Falls for an early lunch.

I was happy to stop in Fergus Falls even though I felt urgency to reach the cities.  Fergus Falls comforts me very much like a warm blanket.  The homes are well-kept and form cozy neighborhoods that are surrounded by mature trees.  The town was especially beautiful painted with fall colors.

Normally I’d stop at Cafe 116, but wanted to try something new.  I wasn’t so much in the mood for cafe food as I was for a blue plate special.

The Viking Cafe is like the antithesis of Cafe 116.  More like the old-fashioned neighborhood diner as seen in movies with wooden booths and pie.  Hence, the cafe’s name, it was lined with Viking-themed decorations.

I stood at the entrance for a few minutes trying to decipher the seating code.  Do I myself or wait to be seated?  The man at the cash register finally directed me to choose a seat.

I settled into a booth in the middle of the room and facing the door.  A server whizzed by and deposited a small glass of ice water and a menu.

After perusing the menu, I ordered coffee with cream and sugar, and a lunch special of fried fish, toast, tomato slices and potato salad.  She took my order and zoomed away as quickly as she had arrived.

The coffee was hot and arrived with my very own saucer of real cream.  I was thrilled.

My food arrived soon after.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fish appeared to be of the pre-frozen plank variety, but it was piping hot, crispy and not greasy in the least.

I liked the potato salad’s tanginess, but I was a little alarmed at it’s temperature which was warmer than I expected.  It didn’t taste off, so I ate it and I hoped it’s temperature was due to having been recently made (I felt fine for the remainder of the day).

The tomatoes were ripe and the toast tasted like butter-flavored oil.

I can not eat fish without lemon, a personal quirk, and looked around to ask for slices or wedges.  The servers raced around, hardly stopping at a table for more than a few seconds.  No one stopped by to check in and my attempts to make eye contact failed.  I nabbed a server who paused at the table behind me and asked for lemon.  She told me they only had lemon juice packets.

I took what I could get.

Several of them appeared sticky with syrup and I didn’t feel like prying them apart.  I let those be.

Overall, the meal was warm and adequate.  I appreciated that I could get in and out in less than a half hour and my final bill was less than $9, including tax.

I realize the cafe was busy, but I was slightly distracted by the smushed muffin patch by my foot.  And when I reached for the salt shaker, my hand immediately recoiled, as it was slick and sticky.  I wish restaurants would routinely wipe down their salt and pepper shakers and ketchup bottles.  This is the second time in the past month that I have been so repulsed by the surface of a condiment bottle that I wouldn’t touch it again.  

All things considered, I would return to The Viking Cafe.  A little grimy, possibly semi-homemade, and brusk, the sum of its parts was mostly endearing.

A Romp Through The Red River Valley Fair & A Gyro Rant

This past weekend, Jake headed North to Grand Forks while I drove east.

On the way to the Twin Cities, I stopped at the Red River Valley Fair in search of lunch.  At 11 a.m., the temperature had already crept well into the 90′s and the fairgrounds were mostly deserted.  I parked in a dusty gravel lot and wandered through the unattended gate.  Some of the animal exhibits appeared to be open while the midway was closed until noon.

I wondered if I’d only be in the company of fair employees, until I encountered a handful of adults trying to pacify bored children with fruity drinks.  For just one more hour.  Obviously, the party wasn’t in full swing yet.  The midway was expansive and rows of food stalls advertised guilty pleasures of the fried kind.  I imagined what I’d miss.  It was unfortunate Jake and I couldn’t attend together.

I meandered through the food stalls searching for a vendor who was ready for business.  Santa Lucia’s booth had food on the griddle so I stopped for a gyro (Santa Lucia is a small, local chain with a full-service restaurant serving Greek and Italian food and smaller locations offering take and bake pizza).

When it comes to gyros, bigger is just not better.  I want my gyros constructed with intention and functionality by the foil cone.  Iceberg lettuce is bad, as its rendered slimy and stinky when placed on hot foods.  Onion is not optional since it cuts the richness of the meat and yogurt.  I’m down with cones of processed gyro meat as long as its shaves are thin and crispy around the edges.  Griddling the meat can be good enough.

The last gyro I bought from Aladdin’s was affordable and cured my cyclical gyro craving, but lacked in other areas.  Overstuffed, iceburg lettuce, & no onion.  While I waited, I definitely heard the ping of a microwave.  I’m guessing it was related to my gyro because I was the only customer in the store.  I have no issues microwaving food in the privacy of my own home, but would prefer not to pay others to.  On a positive note, the employee waived the charge for a side of hot sauce, which was nice.

At the Red River Valley Fair, the man from Santa Lucia’s warmed the pita bread on the griddle, gently filled it with meat, grilled vegetables, yogurt sauce, and fresh salad, and formed it into the iconic foil cone. I was surprised that the meat wasn’t shaved from a cone.  Instead, I noticed thin, rectangular meat slices like those found in frozen gyro kits.  The bland meat was saved by its garnishes.  Solid yogurt sauce, caramelized vegetables, and salad made from crisp romaine and fresh parsley.

I cringed when my gyro and lemonade tallied $12, but such is the price I’ll pay in hopes of tasty street meat.

Gyros might be in the category where the bad ones are still good.  Just less good.  Sort of like pizza. 

It was an odd experience eating a gyro while sitting, alone, in an empty carnival.  I savored my meal while I listened to the songs of food stand employees and returned the blank stares of ride operators.

On the way to my car, I bought a small mound of cheese curds, $6.  They were offered in about four flavors and I was kind of horrified that they were sold by buckets of increasing sizes.  Although they didn’t seem to be freshly battered, the crunchy coating was light and squeaked between my teeth.  Plus, they were as grease-less as cheese curds could possibly manage.

A step above the variety shellacked in that course, breadcrummy coating.

My short stay in Minneapolis was its own type of comfort food.  Nurtured by family and reunited with friends.  Cruising up and down 35W and parallel parking.  I nailed it twice on the first try.  Maybe it’s like riding a bike.

I tried to stave off home sickness when I joined a partly drunk/partly sober group of college Alma maters for a walk.  We wandered past the glowing Institute of Arts, to Eat Street where we stopped at A Slice of New York for late night pizza by the slice.  The staff patiently warmed our giant slices and tucked them into paper bags as we told stories.  Some raved about their slices of tomato and feta, while I managed to polish off a plank topped with bell peppers and gyro meat.  As if a gyro nearly 12 hours ago wasn’t enough. .

On the way back to the Twin Cities, I briefly explored a couple of the towns I had been admiring along I-94, though I was to harried to sit down for a meal.  And as is probably typical outside of larger cities, the shops along the main streets were closed on Sunday afternoon.  I noticed The Albany Restaurant located along main street.  Its windows were adorned with handwritten pieces of paper advertising an eclectic mix of chow mein, fried catfish, and spaghetti.  I made a mental note to return.

This beautiful steeple is visible from the interstate and belongs to a Catholic church in Albany, MN.

Tonight, we’re going to explore Fargo’s Downtown Street Fair.  Then, we’re heading to Remer, MN for an epic, lake cabin adventure with Jake’s siblings and cousins.  I’m leaving the laptop at home, but will update early next week.  In the meantime, you can find me on Twitter.

I-94 Is Delicious: Jacobs Lefse Bakeri and Tip Top Dairy Bar, Osakis, MN

Our morning trek back to North Dakota encountered some minor speed bumps.

For one thing, we both had a raging case of the Tuesdays.  Our three-day weekend was coming to an end and we were anticipating our return to the corporate grind.  Jake was especially anxious to be home, unwind, and process his backlog of laundry.  However, I was itching for an adventure and wanted to stop in a new town for lunch.

When we ease onto the freeway, I realize I left my laptop charger at his parents’ house.  By the time we return to the freeway, Jake’s in a foul mood.  We bicker about stopping or not stopping for lunch and whether or not we should choose a sit-down or take-out joint, until Jake notices a billboard for Jacobs Lefse Bakeri located in Osakis, MN.  Our bickering halts.

I’m not sure what caused Jake to perk up.  Maybe it was the sight of his name, the mention of lefse (which he happens to love), or the combination of both.  Regardless, I was happy to embark on a food adventure.

Osakis is located along I-94, East of Alexandria.  The main street is less than 10-minutes from the freeway and snuggled close to Lake Osakis.  The city has a sleepy charm and I desperately wanted to stay for the evening.  I still fantasize about sitting on that dock and dangling my feet into the big blue lake.

We wandered inside Jacobs Lefse Bakeri.

It smelled like my grandmother’s home.  Any grandmother’s home.  The front counter was adorned with a small selection of baked goods while an adjacent cooler contained lefse.  We decided to pass on the packages of lefse and ordered four lefse rolls, two of each filling.  Lingonberries and butter, and butter, sugar, and cinnamon.  A pleasant woman prepared our lefse rolls in the big, back kitchen and returned with boxes.

While we waited, I sampled sweet, flaky flat bread.  The lefse rolls were delicate and airy.  The sheets were quite large, and each roll was cut into two, substantially-sized pieces.  Each roll was filled with a generous slathering of real butter and sweet fillings.  I still like mine better but I will always like mine better.  All we wished for was a cup of strong coffee.  We would return for some road lefse.

Down the street, I noticed an ice cream shop and suggested we stop.  I was hoping for something savory and salty to wash away the lefse’s lingering sweetness.

Tip Top Dairy Bar reminds me of places my family visited when I was growing up.  We made countless drives to Dairy Delite in Lakeville, MN, which my mom loved even during her last stages of cancer.  When I was much younger, our family used to bike the Cannon Valley Bike Trail.  I remember devouring the ripe raspberries that lined the trail.  No ride was complete without stopping for ice cream, burgers, and onion rings from similar, summer establishment after our ride.

I smiled as I read through Tip Top’s menu that included fried zucchini and pizza burgers.  I half-heartedly ordered a chili dog, while Jake ordered a hot dog and sloppy joe.  Expecting the food to have the after-thought quality of Dairy Queen, I was curious about why our order took a few extra minutes to prepare.

Between 7-10 minutes later, our food popped out from the pick-up window.  The first thing I noticed were the toasted buns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These hot dogs laughed in the face of those typically found at Dairy Queens; Mysteriously cooked without any tell-take signs of having been cooked, and stuffed into spongy buns.

No.  These buns were carefully toasted and the dogs were charred on the outside, juicy on the inside, and garnished with hearty pickle chips.  My chili dog was slathered in a meat sauce that was both savory and sweet, complimenting the hot dog’s salty quality.  We both agreed that this was a damn fine chili dog.

The sloppy joe tasted similar to the chunky, homemade version my mom used to make.

It, too, was garnished with pickle chips and I was happy I was quick enough to grab a forkful.

The thoughtfully prepared food melted away the morning’s crankiness and temporarily numbed our back-to-work anxieties.  Even Jake didn’t regret that our food detour added an extra 45-minutes to our journey.

Each time I drive to and from the Twin Cities, I look forward to proving that one can find compelling food along I-94.

The drive may not be as infamously boring they say.